Routes worth mastering

This business has taken us to many places where you would not normally expect to spot a red double-decker bus, 400 miles from its old haunts. But over the last 15 years we have brought guests to some of these venues so often that a Routemaster looks right at home these days. We don’t like to brag but we’d say it enhances the surroundings, ancient or modern!

So, what are our favourites? Too many to list but here – in no particular order – are some of the hotels, castles, houses, churches and other places that it’s always a pleasure to visit, either for a wedding or other event, and whatever the weather.

View of the Balmoral hotel from Waterloo Place

There’s something about the grandeur and sheer scale of the Balmoral hotel, monumental on its corner site of Princes Street and North Bridge, that is hard to ignore. One of Edinburgh’s great Victorian railway hotels, the Balmoral would probably claim to be the city’s top establishment. Parking is tricky though, with taxis and Lothian Buses jostling for position, so we usually stop up the road on Waterloo Place until we get the nod. Then the concierge, using all the flamboyance and authority they can muster, helps bag us the space.

A few miles to the south, tucked away near Arthur’s Seat at the end of an avenue of limes, is Prestonfield House, a 17th century, white-washed house whose tranquil grounds are only ever disturbed by the occasional racket from the resident peacocks. Inside it’s full of character, all open fireplaces and cosy opulence.

Prestonfield House

Prestonfield House

Arthur’s Seat itself is one of our most frequent destinations – the high road that loops up from St Margaret’s Loch and passes Dunsapie Loch before twisting round below Salisbury Crags must be one of the most spectacular and thrilling routes in Edinburgh, or any city in the world. We have vehicle permits from Holyrood Park, though lately Queen’s Drive has only been open at limited times from Tuesday to Thursday. Some couples have even got married on or near the bus, by Dunsapie Loch, and drunk a toast on board with their guests before we have taken them on to their reception.

Like many hotels, the Kimpton, Charlotte Square – in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town – has gone through several name changes down the years but it remains a popular choice for people who want to experience the city’s Georgian elegance.

One of our bus conductors awaiting guests, just outside the Kimpton hotel on Charlotte Square

Hopetoun House

A host of our most popular venues are clustered inside a small band to the north-west of the city. The suspense builds as you head slowly up the driveway to Hopetoun House, with its imposing classical design and stunning views over the Firth of Forth. Last summer we had the pleasure of providing all three of our vintage buses for the pre-wedding Highland Games celebrations of Sophia and Craig from the US, organised by Sage Raval.

Hopetoun House

Barnbougle Castle

It’s hard to beat Barnbougle Castle, near Dalmeny on the Rosebery Estate. Originally a 13th century tower house, it was rebuilt in the 19th century as a library for the 5th Earl of Rosebery, who was briefly prime minister between 1894 and 1895 and practised his speeches here.

Dundas Castle, a short drive away near South Queensferry, is another stunner. The buses swing round with a satisfying crunch of the gravel before guests get off, often to be greeted with drinks and canapes as they enter the magnificent building. The bulk of it is Victorian, though after many visits I got to explore the Auld Keep a few years ago, which dates back to medieval times and features a wonderful stone and timber hall and spiral staircase.

Dundas Castle

A dusting of snow at Winton Castle

Winton Castle, near Pencaitland in East Lothian, is another of Scotland’s historic houses, dating back to the 12th century. Setons for the first 600 years, then Hamilton Nisbets and – for the last century – the Ogilvy family have kept the keys. In 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie stationed his troops here while the Earl of Seton, who supported the Jacobites, was in the Tower of London. These days our buses are welcomed into the peaceful grounds dotted with huge beeches and oaks.

Carlowrie Castle, just outside Kirkliston and less than half an hour from Edinburgh, is one of our most frequent wedding destinations. A herd of Highland cows graze in the grounds of this Scots baronial mansion.

Carlowrie Castle

Crichton Church near Pathhead is another gem, hidden away at the bottom of a hill down a lane that is only just wide enough for a Routemaster. We are always greeted by Henry, who lives in the manse opposite and whose grandfather was once the minister here. (Henry trims the branches each year to protect our roofs.) We park within sight of the castle, which always strikes me as more Welsh than Scottish for some reason.

Crichton Church

Crichton Church

A few miles away at North Middleton is another proper castle, Borthwick. Mary Queen of Scots fled here from Holyrood in 1567 after the murder of her husband, Lord Darnley. When the castle was surrounded, she disguised herself as a page and rode off to be reunited with Bothwell, Darnley’s suspected killer.

Borthwick Castle

The Royal Yacht Britannia is one of those places we only ever visit at night, driving alongside the ship and dropping clients off for a special dinner. A red carpet and piper provide that extra sense of occasion.

Fireworks above the Royal Yacht Britannia

The Royal Yacht Britannia

The Royal Mile, the historic main artery of Edinburgh’s Old Town, is one of our most requested stops. From the Castle at the top to Holyrood Palace and the Scottish parliament at the bottom – with City Chambers, St Giles Cathedral and Canongate Kirk in between – it may be a magnet for tourists but it’s also a culturally and socially vibrant street.

The Royal Mile, driving toward St Giles Cathedral

The Royal Mile, just outside Edinburgh City Chambers

Canongate Kirk

The Royal Mile at night

East Lothian is spoilt for choice when it comes to exciting venues, from the elegance of Gosford House near Aberlady and Archerfield House by Gullane to Gilmerton a little inland. On a smaller scale, Dirleton Kirk and Seton Collegiate Church are pretty good too. The approach to Broxmouth Park near Dunbar involves squeezing over a cattle grid and through fields of sheep. They usually look surprised to see us.

Gosford House

Archerfield House

Broxmouth Courtyard

Gilmerton House

Laura and Issy at Whitekirk Hill

Whitekirk, off the magical stretch of the A198 near Tantallon Castle, is a relative newcomer and last summer we came here for the first time. We had the pleasure of taking Laura and Issy and their guests here from Tyninghame village hall, a few miles away.

That’s one of the joys of this job – discovering new places. We never quite know where The Red Bus will go next.

Two of our Bus Conductors on break at Dundas Castle

Back to the 1970s

The last time one of our buses was used in a feature film, I had to avoid running over James Norton. He crossed the road in front of a slow-moving RM737 for multiple takes. Early that morning pop-up barbers on the Polish-Scottish production trimmed my hair on the street. Costume kitted me out with a heavy overcoat. Extras stood around freezing in the May haar of Edinburgh, with blankets draped around their shoulders.

The film, Mr Jones, sounded exciting enough – a Welsh journalist, the eponymous Gareth, uncovers Ukraine’s genocidal famine in 1933. He almost meets Stalin, flees for his life and his eventual scoop causes a sensation, alerting the world to the horrors of the Soviet regime. But it all fell strangely flat and the most tragic scenes turned out comical, including a spot of unwitting cannibalism that enraged Jones’s descendants for the liberties it took. And after a full day’s shooting (10 or more laps of Moray Place in the Georgian New Town, standing in for London) our bus appeared for less than half a second in the final release, and less than half the front of the bus at that. All that effort!

Preparing RM875 for filming at the Glasgow Vintage Vehicle Trust in Bridgeton

I have higher hopes for Borderland, an IRA thriller set in 1975 London and starring Aml Ameen, Colin Morgan and Felicity Jones. Last year we were in Glasgow for about 10 days in total, sometimes with two Routemasters, leading a motley gang of Morris Marinas, Ford Cortinas, Vauxhall Chevettes, old black cabs and other ancient vehicles.

The city has been a versatile stand-in for many places, including New York (lately in Succession with Brian Cox and Melrose, starring Benedict Cumberbatch). I know the words “IRA thriller” do not necessarily pair well if you or your family lived through the Troubles or you are among the many thousands directly affected by them. But that’s how this film will be billed.

As someone old enough to remember the bomb scares, and occasional bombings, of London in the 1970s and 1980s, it was strange to drive the bus back to a reconstructed version of that era. It was even weirder to learn that one of the areas they were recreating was Ladroke Grove, a few hundred yards from my childhood home.

Here at The Red Bus we are definitely looking forward to a bit more onscreen bus spotting when Borderland is released.

With thanks to The Red Bus drivers Gordon Stirling and Martin Denman, and Jerry Organ, action vehicles co-ordinator extraordinaire.

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Variety show

This weekend is looking busy but kind of conventional after the supercharged diversity of last Saturday and Sunday. Then we had to deal with everyone from fishwives to film stars and birthday queens, as well as the usual brides and grooms. It was action packed, there were loads of happy faces and I managed not to run over James Norton in 1930s London, aka a heavily costumed Moray Place, Edinburgh.

Dirtying the ads in Moray Place. They looked far too clean at first. Picture: Sam Phipps

What do you mean 1930s London, I hear the anoraks cry. Yes, they're right. The earliest a Routemaster could have been seen on the streets of London was 1956. But how easy would it be to get hold of a 1934 London bus and bring it to Edinburgh? Let's face it, a fleeting glimpse of a big old red London double decker will be enough to trick most viewers. And they got the ads right. (But I will also be taken to task for one of the destination blinds in the picture above. Go on, which one?!)

Here's how the Edinburgh Evening News reported the filming:

https://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/edinburgh-playing-starring-role-in-hollywood-blockbuster-1-4746883

It was interesting for The Red Bus to be involved, along with a convoy of seven or eight old cars. The film is about Gareth Jones, the Welsh journalist who exposed the horrors of Stalin's mass famine in the Ukraine and was himself murdered in the Far East, possibly on the Soviet dictator's orders. He is being played by Norton, who had to cross the road in front of the bus. Again and again. And again. I think we did about 12 takes of the traffic scene. Some of the poor extras standing around on the pavement were getting very cold in the haar after hours of this!

The makeup department also had to give me an impromptu haircut on someone's doorstep as my locks were too unruly for a 1930s bus driver. 

Waiting in line for the director's call for acton. Again... Picture: Sam Phipps

It was a joy to drive RM737 at the annual Cockenzie and Port Seton Gala too, in the 70th year of the event. About half the Gala Queens going back to 1948 were on board as we processed in sunshine through the streets of the East Lothian coastal towns. They were lined with cheering locals and decked with bunting. "Fishwives" carrying big baskets handed out small gifts ahead of the bus.

Stella our conductor passing the hippy chic boat at the Cockenzie and Port Seton Gala. Picture: Sam Phipps

Some previous Gala Queens... The bus was a surprise for them. Picture: Sam Phipps

Back at Granton a Welsh bride-to-be checked out the buses for her wedding plans. Her boys seemed to like it!

Go on Mum, this is the bus for us! Picture: Clunie Phipps

Oh, last weekend we also had two weddings and a 50th birthday party tour. Like I say, it was a fair bit of variety. 

Roll up for the wedding bus!

This Saturday (April 21st) you can come aboard The Red Bus at Chamber Street, Edinburgh and experience it in full wedding mode all they way to the Scottish National Mining Museum at Newtongrange. For free! We'll even bring you back again afterwards.

Why?

The mining museum is holding a fabulous wedding fair and we'll be there from 12pm to 3pm. If you want to hop on at Chamber Street, we'll be parked at the George IV Bridge end from 11.15am, all decorated with fresh flowers and ribbons. And we'll be happy to answer any questions about your possible plans for wedding transport. 

If you prefer not to come to Newtongrange, you're still welcome to take a stationary peek.

We hope to see you there...